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Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan are two major geographical and political units in the larger Karakoram-Hindukush region. These two units have been bound by historical and cultural ties extending over thousands of years. In the olden days, there had been much trade and traffic between these two places, which came to standstill after these places were put under different administrative unit when Britishers came to the region in 1895. Recently motorable road link has been established between Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan, which has revived the old ties to some extent.
I, on August 28, 2024, I embarked on an exhilarating journey from Booni, Upper Chitral, with the goal of reviving an ancient heritage trail. My mission was to inspire youth through adventure tourism, spotlight the untapped tourist potential of Chitral and Gilgit Baltistan, and retrace a largely forgotten route in practical terms. I took one the two main routes from Chitral to Gilgit, i.e. the Chumarkan Pass. This route is higher than the well-known Shandur route and is without a motorable road.
I left Booni at 05;13AM, the trek initially took me through Awi, Meragram, and Sonoghor, with the intention of crossing the formidable Taw Mountain. However, I was informed the trail was impassable due to damage, prompting a detour via Parwak. After crossing the Nissar Gol nulla, I descended to cross the Taw Bridge and ventured towards Sarghuz village. Preferring the scenic route through the village rather than the barren jeep track above Sarghuz, I crossed into Mastuj via a pedestrian bridge at Kuna, continuing through Chuinj to arrive at Chapali by 8:30 PM.
The next morning, I followed the Chumarkhan Stream—a strenuous ascent that proved a true test of endurance. By 2:30 PM, I reached the summer hut owned by Mastuj people, for a brief respite. Although I initially set out to cross the Chumarkan Pass towards Barset, it became evident that reaching my destination before nightfall was not possible. Instead, I returned to the pasture and spent the night with hospitable goat herders, gaining a glimpse into their way of life.
On the third day, I crossed Chumarkhan Pass (4350m) and arrived at Barset by 2:30 PM, where I enjoyed a hearty lunch with Qadir Shah, a kind-hearted teacher and social worker. Despite a light drizzle, I pressed on, descending to Golaghmoli by 07:10 PM. I was warmly hosted by Mr. Ilum Khan, a retired principal who extended exceptional hospitality. I am really thankful.Day four saw me crossing the Ghizer stream below Golaghmoli and arriving at Phandar, where I was interviewed by Mr. Ali Rehmat, a local teacher and social media activist. The route continued through Chashi village and other smaller hamlets before reaching Pringal at dusk. Here, I was graciously received by retired teacher Imtiaz Ahmed, whose generosity and conversation were much appreciated.
The following morning, I trekked through a series of villages, eventually reaching Gupis by 5:30 PM and the Gupis Market by 7:00 PM. I was hosted by Raja Jalil Ali Ahmed Jan, the son of Raja Ali Ahmed Jan and nephew of Baba Jan Mitar. Their hospitality was overwhelming, and I was captivated by Raja Ali Ahmed Jan’s charismatic presence—a gentleman both eloquent and ageless.
On day six, I set out for Gahkuch, passing through Raushan and neighboring villages to reach my destination by 7:30 PM. The Ghizer Hotel Association officials greeted me warmly, their hospitality further enhancing my experience. After a media interview aired on local cable TV, I continued my trek the next morning, traversing Gurunjur, Gulmiti, Singul, and various other villages before reaching Golapur, a village to the right side of Sher Qila. I spent the night with a local bank manager, a well-educated and generous host.
My final day on the trail commenced at 8:30 AM from Golapur. I trekked towards Gilgit City, completing the 8-day journey by 5:56 PM. Covering an arduous 320 kilometers—an average of 40 kilometers per day—the trek was a true test of stamina and spirit. I am profoundly grateful to the people of Ghizer and Gilgit, as well as the entire Gilgit Baltistan region, for their overwhelming hospitality and kindness. A special thanks to the Gilgit Baltistan Tourism Police, whose professionalism, discipline, and care were unparalleled.
After concluding the trek, I rested for two days in Gilgit before traveling by car to Islamabad via the stunning Babusar Pass (4,173 m). Along the route, the breathtaking vistas of Lulusar Lake (3,410m), Naran, and Kaghan served as the perfect finale to this unforgettable journey, which culminated with my arrival in Islamabad by midnight.
